Returning to Tatopani: A Journey Through Time and Memory

After a grueling 14-hour drive through winding, rugged roads, I’ve just arrived in Tatopani, nestled in the heart of Nepal’s Myagdi district. Known for its natural hot springs and dramatic landscape, this place has transformed over the years—but stepping into it now feels like walking through a memory.

I was only 15 years old when I first passed through here. As a young trekking porter, I had just completed a journey with a group of foreign trekkers. Their adventure ended in Jomsom, from where they flew back to Pokhara. But for me, the road continued—on foot. With no money for a flight, I began my solo journey from Jomsom to Beni, hoping to catch a local bus back to Kathmandu.

I still remember that morning vividly—leaving Marpha around 3 a.m., under the dim light of the stars, carrying the weight of both my pack and my dreams. The trail carved along the Kali Gandaki River was unforgiving, flanked by deep gorges and shadowed by towering cliffs. My feet were tired, but my resolve was stronger. I walked for hours, driven by necessity and the quiet hope for a better future.

Today, as I stand by the riverbank and listen to the roar of the Kali Gandaki, the past returns with startling clarity. The river still flows with the same intensity, carving through stone as it always has—unchanged, timeless. And yet, everything else has changed. The boy who once walked this path out of survival has returned as a man, seeking something deeper: a reconnection with the place where his journey began.

This land holds my story—my struggles, my endurance, and my quiet triumphs. In its mountains and gorges, I find a reflection of my own path through life. Tatopani is no longer just a destination; it is a mirror to my past and a reminder that even in hardship, there is beauty, meaning, and the power of memory.