Navigating Change in the Heart of Upper Mustang

Continue to Lo-Manthang:

I woke early, fueled by curiosity, and set off toward Lo-Manthang in a rented electric jeep. The journey north revealed a dramatic shift in landscapes—from lush forests and deep gorges to Mustang’s arid, high-altitude desert.

Reaching Jomsom by midday, I faced an unexpected challenge: the electric jeep couldn’t continue due to the lack of charging stations. I switched to a gasoline-powered vehicle and, after a simple lunch of dal bhaat, resumed the rugged journey. The road grew rougher, with dust and bumps turning the four-hour drive into a true endurance test.

By dusk, we arrived in Lo-Manthang. Despite fatigue, I ventured into the village’s winding alleys. The locals spoke Tibetan, making communication difficult, and I chose not to photograph out of respect when unsure of their comfort.

As I walked, I noticed a quiet shift—traditional Tibetan homes stood alongside new concrete buildings, and smartphones lit up ancient doorways. Change had arrived. Lo-Manthang, once sealed off from the world, now stood delicately between honoring its past and adapting to the future.